As
I prepared for my wedding, back in the dark ages when no one I knew had a cell
phone and ‘the internet’ was a new, unfamiliar word, airlines had 800 numbers
you could call for travel agency-type help. I told the nice lady there that I
had $1000 and wanted to go to a beach, and she suggested Key West, the southernmost
tip of Florida (and the continental United States). I’d never heard of it but
it fit my two requirements so that May my new husband and I boarded a plane
and flew to Miami. We began to drive, and when we ran out of land we found
ourselves in Key West--a little over seven square miles of palm trees, beaches,
naval bases and homes that list for half a million dollars but could be bought
for maybe $50K anywhere else.
We
had a fun time despite sunburn and swimmer's ear. We ate at the
Half-Shell Raw Bar, remarkable to me because they never overcook the fried
shrimp. (Not easy, given that the difference between cooked shrimp and
overcooked shrimp is approximately ten nanoseconds.) In the ramshackle plaza
near the Half Shell sat a small gift shop called Margaritaville, Jimmy Buffet’s
first foray into retail. I was delighted to find that among his other
offerings, he stocked the complete set of John D. MacDonald books. The teenage cashier
remained smarmily unimpressed with my knowledge of detective literature, though
she did unbend enough to say they had been very sad when John D. had passed
away only six months before.
The
secret to the island is that there isn’t that much to do—a few sites of
historical significance, Ernest Hemingway’s home, the house Harry Truman worked
from on his frequent visits, the ruins of a Civil-War era fort, a small
aquarium, a cemetery where many of the victims from the U.S.S. Maine are
buried, and that’s about it. It presents no obligation to improve one’s mind, merely
to swim, eat, drink—there’s plenty of drinking—and do a little shopping. One is
forced to actually relax.
 |
My husband walking through Fort Zachary Taylor |
Fast-forward
fifteen years. My husband and I had moved to Cape Coral, Florida, and as our anniversary
approached we realized we could drive to Key West in 5-6 hours. We went for a long
weekend. When we mentioned our story to local residents they invariably asked
how we could recognize the place— in their view ‘so much had changed!’ Yet even
today, the Best Western where we honeymooned is still there. The Sears where we
bought a camera because neither of us had brought one is still open. Sloppy
Joes, of course, is still a fixture, even though (myth alert) it is not the location at which Hemingway used
to hang out, that bar is around the
corner and now called Captain Tony’s. My beloved Half Shell Raw Bar is still
there. (When we first returned I asked the hostess if fifteen years previously there had been a store
called Margaritaville across the way—it had since migrated to a national scale. Then I looked at the hostess and realized
that fifteen years previously she would have been too young for preschool, and shut up.)

I’m
not saying it’s a perfect vacation destination. In many ways it’s a Sin City
full of alcohol, obscene T-shirts and overpriced gift shops. In many ways it’s
a testament to perseverance—hundred-year-old homes here survive hurricanes
because they’re built out of recovered ship timbers, as solid as granite. But
to me it’s the place where I leave everything behind, all the stress, work,
decisions, uncertainties of life and instead keep nothing more pressing on my
agenda than debating how much shrimp I can eat in one week. Everyone needs a
place like that.
What’s
your place?
Key West is indeed a lovely place -- super location to kick back and perhaps create your next great novel, Lisa....just as Hemingway did so many years ago. As for me -- I enjoy the lifestyle in Naples, FL -- just about 5 hours north of Key West. Naples not only offers gorgeous beaches, but tons of restaurants, interesting speaker series, the Philharmonic Center presenting hundreds of productions a year, plus book clubs galore. So between the two of us, maybe we can lure more folks to our great state of Florida! thanks for a nice post.....Karna Bodman
ReplyDeleteYou probably have a lot less drunk people in Naples, too!
DeleteYou've painted a good picture of the place. I've never been to Key West. But I adore a good, tart Key Lime Pie. Does that count? (It's hard to find a good one. Every version I've ever had is always too sweet.) What about the home prices, though? Are they still exorbitant? I expect a half-million would be a bargain these days!
ReplyDeleteActually the half-million is current home prices—I don’t know what they were 32 years ago!
DeleteIt’s tough to get too sweet for me, but in my opinion the best Key Lime pie is from the Publix supermarket bakery. Do you have any of those near you?
What a wonderful description of Key West. I've never been but now I want to go!
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